Gourmand Perfumes Instead of Chocolate? A Controversial Y2K Trend Returns
While it may sound absurd, researchers have identified a correlation between the popularity of gourmand fragrances and the trend supporting diet culture. While perfumes themselves aren't a silver bullet for maintaining a slim figure, they do point to a dangerous trend in which scent compensates for hunger. Does it even work?
Looking back over the last two decades, it's true that the gourmand perfume trend has seen two significant waves: the first at the beginning of the new century and the second twenty years later. Analyzing trends from the 2000s, interest in food-inspired fragrances began to grow as diet culture gained momentum. A similar trend can be seen two decades later, where the cult of the social media-driven figure began to take on a significant role. In the wake of the new "social diet," scents reminiscent of homemade cake, cotton candy, or chocolate dessert began to mushroom.
Anna Sui Sundae Pretty Pink - gourmand perfume / press materialsIn the 1990s, neurologist Alan Hirsch studied 3,000 people, testing whether it was possible to "trick the stomach" with scent to find an effective weight loss method. He transformed his discovery into a "miracle diet" based on his own research.
The study involved overweight individuals who used aroma inhalers for six months. Whenever they felt hungry, they inhaled the vapors of banana, green apple, and peppermint. After six months, the participants lost an average of 14 kg (39 lbs) without using any additional factors that could have influenced weight loss. Those with a more developed sense of smell lost more weight.
Hirsch's weight-loss method, however, was not met with enthusiasm, and the researcher who created the product, which was supposed to aid weight loss, received a $26 million fine from the US Federal Trade Commission in 2014 for lack of scientific evidence of its effectiveness and controversial use. Regardless of whether Hirsch was right, many people, including dietitians, have noticed a certain correlation between the effect of gourmand scents on food cravings.
Princess by Vera Wang / press materialsAccording to Hirsch, inhaling a scent sends a satiety signal to the brain. If it's "delivered" to the satiety center in the hypothalamus, where it's processed, it can suppress or completely stop hunger signals before they even occur. How does this relate to gourmand perfumes? Both now and twenty years ago, a very slim figure was the trend, and achieving it contributed to the development of serious illnesses like anorexia and bulimia. The societal pressure to be thin led many people to seek quick and effective methods to achieve their desired figure.
At the same time, after 2000, the perfume market began to see a proliferation of sweet fragrances, promoted by top showbiz names. Consider Britney Spears and her 2005 Fantasy, a perfume that was utterly sweet, scented with lychee, apricots, kiwi, white chocolate cupcakes, and creamy musk, or the sugary Princess by Vera Wang (2005). This was also a time of immense popularity for Thierry Mugler's Angel, which ushered in the era of "edible perfumes" in 1992. The fragrance was intended to compensate for the hardships of dieting and self-denial, improving well-being while subconsciously appealing to the senses.
Byredo Vanille Antique / press materialsTwenty years after the wave of interest in sweet perfumes and exaggeratedly emaciated figures, the trend has begun to return. On the one hand , Generation Z is promoting healthy eating habits and physical activity, while on the other, they are immersing themselves in the world of gourmand fragrances , which are currently experiencing a resurgence. Examples of overly sweet fragrance notes include those by Sabrina Carpenter, the new Le Labo release Thé Matcha 26, and DS & Durga's Pistachio.
Ultra-sweet scents are also embraced by major fashion houses, as well as luxury perfume houses like Amouage (Love Delight) and Byredo (Vanille Antique). New releases announced for this season also revolve around notes reminiscent of classic gourmand perfumes.
