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"Couscous is older than states": between Algeria and Morocco, a long-disputed paternity

"Couscous is older than states": between Algeria and Morocco, a long-disputed paternity
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While the Algerian Minister of Communication has accused his neighbor of gastronomic "plundering" amid diplomatic tensions, researchers and chefs point out that the origin of the dish is difficult to identify and does not comply with border logic.
The choice of a delicious Moroccan couscous to illustrate this article does not commit the editorial staff of "Libération" to this debate. (Julien Fourniol/Getty Images)

Couscous, a symbol of conviviality? Between Morocco and Algeria, the dish embodies irreconcilable visions, with both sides claiming to be the originator. There have been countless clashes over this highly inflammatory subject between the two neighbors with strained diplomatic relations, against the backdrop of the conflict over Western Sahara .

A new episode of this standoff in recent days: Thursday, June 12, in Parliament, the Algerian Minister of Communication, Mohamed Meziane, claimed that Morocco had "claimed this Algerian dish," as reported by several local French-language media outlets. Evoking the caftan, zellige, and even popular songs, the minister accused the Cherifian kingdom of "cultural appropriation" and culinary appropriation, a form of "pillage" carried out particularly during the Black Decade (1992-2002), according to him. "All ancient historians say that couscous appeared for the first time in history in Algeria," Mohamed Meziane justified, citing "an in-depth study conducted by a French historian at the beginning of the last century," without providing a specific source.

The two countries had managed to overcome their disagreements not so long ago: couscous was included in the intangible cultural heritage of the Union.

Libération

Libération

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